“I'd assumed only famous surfers rode Waimea. But now I saw that local fathers rode it too. And in time perhaps their sons would as well. These people never appeared in mainland magazines. And there were many families like the Kalakakuis in Hawaii, multi-generational surfing families, Ohanas rich in talent and tradition, known only to one another.”Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life William Finnegan
“There's a temptation for all of us to blame failures on factors outside our control — the enemy was ten feet tall, we weren't treated fairly, or it was an impossible task to begin with. There's also comfort in doubling down on proven processes regardless of their efficacy. Few of us are criticized if we faithfully do what has worked many times before. But feeling comfortable or dodging criticism should not be our measure of success. There's likely a place in paradise for people who tried hard, but what really matters is succeeding. If that requires you to change, that's your mission.”Team of Teams: New Rules of Engagement for a Complex World General Stanley A. McChrystal, U.S. Army, ret.
“Forget your lust for the rich man's gold; All that you need is in your soul; And you can do this, oh baby, if you try; All that I want for you, my son, is to be satisfied.”Lynyrd Skynyrd's Simple Man