“People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf.”

George Orwell

“I'd assumed only famous surfers rode Waimea. But now I saw that local fathers rode it too. And in time perhaps their sons would as well. These people never appeared in mainland magazines. And there were many families like the Kalakakuis in Hawaii, multi-generational surfing families, Ohanas rich in talent and tradition, known only to one another.”

William Finnegan
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

“Did he fail? Fuck no. Do you know why he didn't fail? Let me explain to you why the fuck he didn't fail. When he got through sqatting he was laying on the fucking floor. You know what that means? That means that he gave every fucking thing that he had. And any time you give every fucking thing you have, you cannot fail. It's impossible. That is the fucking point. Give it all.”

C.T. Fletcher