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“A few weeks after my sixtieth birthday I pulled into two barrels, back to back, at Pua'ena Point, on the North Shore of Oahu. They were as deep and long as any tube I had ridden since Kirra, more than thirty years before. Both waves let me out untouched. Being adjacent to that much beauty — more than adjacent; immersed in; pierced by it — was the point. The physical risks were footnotes.”

William Finnegan
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

“Out of every one hundred men, ten shouldn't even be there, eighty are just targets, nine are the real fighters, and we are lucky to have them, for they make the battle. Ah, but the one — one is a warrior, and he will bring the others back.”

Heraclitus

“Chang Yu says: ‘Humanity and justice are the principles on which to govern a state, but not an army; opportunism and flexibility, on the other hand, are military rather than civil virtues to assimilate the governing of an army.’”

Sun Tzu
The Art of War