“I'd assumed only famous surfers rode Waimea. But now I saw that local fathers rode it too. And in time perhaps their sons would as well. These people never appeared in mainland magazines. And there were many families like the Kalakakuis in Hawaii, multi-generational surfing families, Ohanas rich in talent and tradition, known only to one another.”

William Finnegan
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

“Out of every one hundred men, ten shouldn't even be there, eighty are just targets, nine are the real fighters, and we are lucky to have them, for they make the battle. Ah, but the one — one is a warrior, and he will bring the others back.”

Heraclitus

“The master has failed more times than the beginner has even tried.”