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“Unless you enter the tiger's lair, you cannot get hold of the tiger's cubs.”

Sun Tzu
The Art of War

“A few weeks after my sixtieth birthday I pulled into two barrels, back to back, at Pua'ena Point, on the North Shore of Oahu. They were as deep and long as any tube I had ridden since Kirra, more than thirty years before. Both waves let me out untouched. Being adjacent to that much beauty — more than adjacent; immersed in; pierced by it — was the point. The physical risks were footnotes.”

William Finnegan
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

“You can't drive me crazy cuz I'm close enough to walk.”

J-Ro, on Tha Alkaholiks' Bullshit